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Marine Air Conditioning

Once thought to be impractical or extravagant, air conditioning a single sleeping cabin or your entire vessel is easier than you think. Our Climma marine air conditioning systems are manufactured by Veco in Italy and their product range spans the requirements of small cabin cruisers through to large megayachts. Veco product engineering is second to none.

All systems feature marine grade stainless steel chassis components and carry a full one year manufacturers warranty from date of installation. We match the right size AC Generator to power the system - too big a generator will often result in premature failure due to bore glazing. Smaller systems can be powered by an Inverter/Charger which means that an AC generator set is not always required.

Board

Cruising is always a nice thing, but in summer the inside of the boat often gets too hot. We are already used to air-conditioning in our car, in offices, in hotels: why waste a nice day? Good air-conditioning can be a "do it yourself" installation. In this article we explain first the theory of summer cooling and winter heating and then the available systems and finally a practical example of an installation.

Everybody who owns a boat with a small or medium-size cabin knows that the warmest place of the boat in summer is probably the sleeping cabin, where the temperature is always a few degrees higher than the external temperature on hot summer days: The sensation of heat created by the warm still air increases if we are not moving with air flow through the vessel which may be limited by small accesses and hatches. It is obvious that as boats are made from different materials and have different shapes and configurations, we can find more or less comfortable cabins; another variable is the possibility of ventilation and therefore the quantity, size and position of doors, hatches etc.

We have so far considered the problems of the summer season, but if you use the boat in the cooler periods as well, even if the cabin feels slightly warmer than outside, it will never reach a comfortable temperature if you do not install a heating system. Many boat owners give up using their boat in the hottest or coldest period of the year exactly for this reason. Or in summer they simply cannot use the cabin as it is more comfortable staying outside. Cabins become very uncomfortable when the sun shines and there is little or no natural ventilation.

Maybe you still remember 'that July 199.. when I could not sleep for an entire week because of heat, mosquitos, and marina noise'. There are an infinity of types and models of boats but all, even in different ways, have the same problems.
Nowadays we can find in the market a wide choice of systems which will solve this summer inconvenience satisfactorily. The market offers air-conditioning units specifically designed for marine use. The range of these systems includes units for any size of boat, with cabins of small, medium or large size. We will deal here with the smaller units and boats, but it must be said that the same manufacturers make very large units for very large vessels. The most interesting thing, which is the good news of recent years, is that the 'small' systems are quite easy to install and reasonably inexpensive. Considering the advantages of the air-conditioning on a boat, the installation of an air-conditioning system is quite simple and anybody with a bit of "do it yourself" experience and a with few, non specific tools, will be capable of a successful installation of a compact system. This article will give you all the necessary information to complete your installation.

Capacity Requirements
The capacity needed to air-condition a room is expressed in Btu/h. In order to calculate the value you must calculate the room surface of each cabin and consider its' position in the boat. This table gives the capacity value expressed in btu/h from the surface area value for tropical conditions. When more rooms are to be conditioned, the addition of each individual capacity gives the total capacity needed for the boat.

    The "K" factor used on the chart at right takes into account the location of the cabin with respect to the anticipated heat load. Cross reference the cabin area (in square metres) to the K-factor to determine the BTU capacity required to cool the cabin. This chart uses a differential temperature (Outside air temperature minus inside temperature) of 15 degrees which is a standard for tropical climates. For moderate climates, derate the resulting BTUs' by 33%.

    K = 20-22
    Owners cabin and guest cabins:

    K= 28-30
    Saloon or dinette without or limited window and glass area (sail yacht or power "open" configuration):

    K=35
    Saloon or dinette with large glass area (power boat- Fly configuration):

    K=40
    Wheelhouse (power boat) with very large glass area:

Below you will find a short theoretical chapter with tables, numbers and coefficients: it is obvious that in order to air-condition a space, as each boat has different sizes and characteristics, it is necessary to combine the different components supplied by the manufacturers, and to do this, you need positive figures of the requirement. You do not need to go back to school, nor to look for the physics school book: with these tables and formulas you will know immediately the capacity you need. Our purpose is in fact to clear your doubts and answer your questions. Air-conditioning is quite common already in any application, lets make it easy also for onboard air-conditioning. We find it already on small cars, in houses it is more and more common, and offices are widely air-conditioned for a better quality of life. Then we ask why a leisure boat, which is the long dreamed place to spend our vacations, must be not livable in summer which is when we like to have holidays. This first part of the article deals with the evaluation of the boat characteristics and the needs, which will then be used to choose the correct system and model of air-conditioner more suitable to our boat.

Glossary
BTU (British Thermal Unit)   The unit to measure the heat capacity. It is 1/4 of Calorie.
Calorie:  
Heat capacity measure. One calorie is the heat needed to increase of one degree C. one litre of water.
Reverse cycle:   It is a technical way to modify the refrigeration circuit in order to produce heat.
Fan coil   It is a heat exchanger or evaporator equipped with a fan.
Evaporator:   Heat exchanger between refrigerant and air or between refrigerant and water.
Heat exchanger:   Technical component used to transfer heat from one fluid to another.
Climate control system:   An air-conditioner with an automatic control which maintains the preset temperature.

What air-conditioning means
Air-conditioning means to modify the temperature and humidity of a room in order to achieve a more comfortable living condition. An air-conditioning system has the capacity to take, treat and deliver the air of a room cooled and dehumidified to the correct values. An air-conditioner has normally also the capacity to heat the room when it is equipped either with the reverse cycle system or with an electrical heater. an air-conditioner is also supplied with a room temperature control (thermostat), a on/off switch and a fan speed control with multiple speeds. If the air-conditioner has also the heat function, then the control panel gives also gives the choice between cooling and heating. This choice can also be automatically made, in such a way that once you set the desired temperature, the air-conditioner control will choose automatically the functioning mode to reach and maintain the set temperature. In this case the air-conditioner becomes an environmental control system.

Air ducting
A. Saloon delivery grill
B. Owner's cabin delivery grill
C. Guest's cabin delivery grill
D. Air intake grills
E. Compact self-contained air conditioner,
installed under the seats of the dinette
 

Independent Direct Expansion Units

Independent direct expansion units are self contained or two part units which are used to air-condition one or two rooms close to one another.

The air-conditioner treats the room air and delivers the air back directly to the room recirculation, through air ducting with sizes from 75 to 175 mm which avoids making complicated and long distribution systems.

The compact type combines the compressor, condenser and evaporator on a single platform. Being fully self contained, the units are factory pre-charged with gas and do not require a refrigeration mechanic for set-up and installation.

An interesting version of the independent unit is the split model which is built in two parts: a compressor/condenser assembly and a separate evaporator/fan assembly which can be installed several metres away from the compressor, saving cabin space and permitting the air-conditioning installation in boats where there is no space for both components in one piece. The compressor/condenser set assembly might be mounted in the engine room space.

The temperature control in both cases is made by stopping and running the compressor and also by controlling the fan speed.


Direct Expansion Compact Type


Direct Expansion Split Type

Central Direct Expansion Units
Central units with direct expansion circuit to several evaporators (fan coils). These are very common units used in land installations where they can be called 'multi-split'. In marine applications there are some installations made with this configuration where one (large) compressor cools several evaporators. Unfortunately this simplified configuration makes the system inflexible and it tends to become unbalanced, particularly when the thermal load is reduced at night and with the large compressor balanced for the high load of the day, it becomes far in excess of the reduced night load. This situation can cause an increase in the fan coil noise into the cabins. In addition to this, the piping for the refrigerant connection to each fan coil could become a weak point if not correctly designed and installed: as any leak will stop the entire system and the repair could be a real hassle. With this type of system it is not possible to connect several compressors in parallel on the same circuit; each compressor must have its independent circuit connected to its evaporators. The temperature of each room is controlled by stopping the fan of that room or by stopping the refrigerant flow to that fan coil. In either case again the system becomes unbalanced if not properly designed as the compressor capacity is still the same while the fan coil load is reduced.
 
Central Chilled Water Systems

Central systems use chilled (or heated) water distribution to several fan coils each installed in the room to be air-conditioned. In this case the central system, which can be made with one or more compressors, cools (or heats) the water of a closed water circuit which is pumped to each fan coil.

The main compressor equipment is usually mounted in the engin room equipment space.

This type of unit has several advantages:

  • the distribution system of the chilled (or heated) water has the same characteristics as a heating circuit but instead of a boiler there are one or more chiller compressors and at the place of the radiator in each room there are the fan coils.
  • Each fan coil is completely independent from the central unit, which is set to keep the fresh water circuit temperature at a preset value (normally +12C in summer mode and +40C in winter mode); all the fan coils are connected in parallel to the fresh water circuit and the room temperature.
  • The system can be run at reduced capacity (maybe a single compressor) to reduce load when connected to limited shore power systems.

 

Central Chilled Water System

1
  CENTRAL CHILLER PLANT
2
  FAN COIL
  A - FAN COIL EV
  B - FAN COIL FC
  C - FAN COIL FCV
3
  FRESH WATER PUMP
4
  SEA WATER PUMP
5
  EXPANSION TANK
6
  FAN COIL MANIFOLD
7
  FRESH WATER CIRCUIT HOUSES
8
  FAN COIL CONTROL PANEL
9
  SEA WATER INTAKE
10
  SEA WATER STRAINER
11
  CONDENSATE DRAIN
12
  SEA WATER OUTLET

EV Type Fan Coil

FC Type Fan Coil

FCV Type Fan Coil

Cooling mode
The airconditioner, when used in cool mode (summer use), is a refrigerating unit which subtracts the heat from the room air (directly in the direct expansion systems, and indirectly with an intermediate fluid in case of 'chiller' systems). The heat removed together with the heat generated by the compressor working, must be then dissipated outside the air-conditioned space. The marine air-conditioner uses a special marine heat exchanger to dissipate the heat to the sea water, which is circulated by a pump.

Heating mode
The same airconditioner which produces 'cold' in summer, can produce heat in winter. In order to produce heat the air- conditioner must be equipped either by a "reverse cycle valve" or by an electric resistor. The reverse cycle valve is a special 4 way valve which can "reverse" the refrigerating circuit so that the evaporator becomes a condenser and the condenser becomes an evaporator. In this way the heat is taken from the sea water (which is consequently cooled) and given to the room air which is heated. This heat is sufficient for Mediterranean climate, with mild winter temperature and, more important, sea water temperature above 0° C. The sea water temperature must be carefully considered as the air-conditioner efficiency drops dramatically if the sea water temperature drops below 10 c. If this happens the air-conditioner looses efficiency and it can no longer be used. In this case for cold seas it is advisable to install a system equipped with electrical heating, which doesn't loose efficiency in cold waters. In the market are also available air-conditioners equipped with electrical heating.

Air Grilles
The pictures show the use of the air distribution grills, their shape and some of the possible installations. As the cold air is heavier than warm air, the cold air falls therefore the cooled air should be dispersed across the deck head or at least upwards. This is achievable also by realigning the grill blades. The air grill has also a high impact on the inside decor.


Sea water cooling of the air-conditioner
Because of the heat rejected overboard by an air-conditioner when cooling, and the consequent problems in typical marine installations, all marine air-conditioners are water cooled, in other words the air-conditioner dissipates the heat into the sea water, using a special marine heat exchanger in which the sea water is circulated by means of a pump. Of course a "land" air- conditioner could also be installed but due to external noise and water ingress the result will-hardly be satisfactory. The pump used to circulate the sea water should be rated for continuous duty and built to-marine specifications. It is normal to use a marine 240-volt centrifugal pump which is installed below the water line as the standard centrifugal pump is not self priming.

Safety
The marine air-conditioning has two aspects which must be well considered for safety reasons:

  • The system is connected to mains supply (normally 230V) and it is essential that the connections follow the safety rules.
  • The air-conditioner unit (or its fan coils) must recirculate the cabin air and possibly a small percentage of external air. The air intake should never come from a contaminated compartment or even worse, from the engine or generator room. In case of a problem in the exhaust system of the engine or generator, the exhaust gas is lethal to man and if the air-conditioner takes and delivers these gasses it will be extremely dangerous or even lethal to the people on board.

Air distribution - Recirculation and air exchange
The air-conditioning of a compartment may work only by treating the air of the room temperature. The majority of the air-conditioners work with recirculation only as the air-conditioner treats and delivers back to the ambient the same air taken from the room. The use of fresh air is not normal practice, as there is normally more than sufficient "natural" air exchange in the original yacht project, from ventilators, hatches, doors and generally "passage" to the external ambient for breathing and odour removal. The air exchange becomes a must for yachts above 25-30 metres and for boats designed for personnel carriers. When handling air (air-conditioning) it is necessary to keep in mind the following rules:

  • Cold air is heavier than warm air and therefore always falls, and for this reason, in order to achieve a good temperature distribution of the air-conditioned space, it is advisable that the treated (cold) air is delivered towards the ceiling, vertically or horizontally. This rule is valid particularly for the spaces of the areas used during the day, such as the dinette and the saloon and wheelhouse; as these areas suffer the maximum solar effect which increases the heat load to be dissipated. In order to get a minimum temperature gradient, the air is ideally delivered across the deck head or at least towards the top of the space and therefore takes advantage of the natural convection which pushes the cold air down and lifts the warm air.
  • The winter heating typically needs less capacity than the summer cooling and it is advisable to give a priority to the configuration for the cooling effect rather than the heating which will be achieved without too much effort.
  • Toilets and the galley space (if apart) are normally not conditioned and it is good practice to keep them slightly depressurised by using an extractor fan: in this way odours will be kept inside these spaces and the extractor will take air from the other rooms which are conditioned. External air will be therefore taken from the deck area (saloon), helping the fresh air exchange, and the conditioned air will also cool toilets and the galley.
  • The ducting of the conditioned air must be as simple as possible to reduce the pressure drop; short and straight ducting is the rule, while elbows, bends and generally "winding" paths are to be avoided. Complex "networks" must be avoided as they cause pressure drop and reduce the air-conditioner capacity and effectiveness dramatically.
  • All the air-conditioners have a "nominal" capacity expressed in Btus/h or Watts/h; however this maximum capacity is strictly related to the air treated by the air-conditioner and drop at the same rate as the air flow. Therefore we recommend that the air circuit is as short and simple as possible, particularly if the maximum capacity of the air-conditioner is needed.
  • The air intake for the air-conditioner is also important. Air intake must be straight back to the air-conditioner through a grill or opening which does not cause any pressure drop.
Air Duct

The diameter to be considered is the inside diameter

    A. Steel spring
    B. Inside duct: textile with PVC
    C. Insulating material: rockwool
    D. Outside skin: Craft paper

Air delivery grills
The treated air must be delivered and diffused into the area to be air-conditioned, in such a way that it doesn't bother people by causing a draught and should be quiet, by avoiding too high an air speed, and for this reason air grills have to be installed of a size adequate for the air-conditioner capacity. The market offers a variety of grills in metal, wood and plastic; it is also possible to make custom made grills incorporated in the yacht furniture. If well studied, grills can be aesthetically pleasing and matching the internal decor.

The air-conditioner or fan coil must take the air from the room to treat it. The space where the air-conditioner is installed must be in direct communication with the room to be conditioned. In this case it is not necessary for an intake grill as the air is drawn freely. The intake grill is needed for the decor purpose only, as the intake must be "masked" , but other solutions for the air intake can be found with improved appearance. When the treated air from an air-conditioner is delivered to several cabins, one must consider that the air from these cabins must return to the air-conditioner. Often cabin doors are not tight, but it must be checked that the air passage is enough, otherwise the air-conditioner will run at a reduced capacity due to a restricted return. A passage for the return air can sometimes be found through a locker which is common to both cabins.

Practical Example

Having explained the theoretical issue of onboard air-conditioning, we are now at the point to start a practical installation, putting theory to practice. We will start from the components needed for the installation, the heat load calculation and finally the detailed installation of each component.

Air distribution accessories
The air supply grill is the item which is clearly visible on an air-conditioning installation, but it is not the only one. The air-conditioner is usually supplied with a duct adaptor of a specified diameter suitable for the capacity determined by the air-conditioner. In order to connect the air outlet from the air-conditioner to the delivery air grill (see drawing) the following components are normally needed:
  • flexible insulated duct
  • duct adaptors
  • splitter plenums (for installations with more than one grill)
  • plenum chamber (to connect the duct and duct adaptor to the grill)

The only exceptions to this configuration are the direct expansion split units and the chilled water fan coils of boxed type for horizontal or vertical installation and direct air delivery, which do not need any accessory other than the intake and supply air grills.

Air filtration
The treated air should be preferably filtered to stop dust and other particles which can clog the finned air heat exchanger. Normally all the air handlers and boxed fan coil are supplied with their air filter as a standard. or as an alternative the air filter can be installed on the air intake grill.

Heat load calculation
This is the name of the formula which is used to find the capacity needed to air-condition a room (cabin). The most simple formula needs the following data:

S=The floor area of the room to be conditioned (see drawing).
Te= External temperature
Ti= Desired Inside temperature
K=Thermal coefficient of the room to be conditioned (there must be a K, otherwise what formula is this?)

The formula is: Heat load = S x (Te-Ti) x K.

(Te - Ti) depends from the climate you want to consider: Mediterranean uses 8-10 which is the difference you want to achieve between outside and inside temperature. For tropical climates the standard used value is 15.

Finally we get to K:
K value is determined by the solar gain, the quantity of people and the use of the room.

In a very rough calculation these are the values:

Owners cabin and guest cabins: K = 20-22

Saloon or dinette without or limited window and glass area (sail yacht or power "open" configuration): K= 28-30

Saloon or dinette with large glass area (power boat- Fly configuration): K=35

Wheelhouse (power boat) with very large glass area: K=40

For example, suppose you have to air-condition a dinette in a "open" power boat: its area is (3 x 2) = 6 sqM; the heat load is then:

Heat Load = 6sqM. x 30 (K) x 10 (Te-Ti)= 1,800 W/h.

This is a nice number which corresponds to the heat load to be extracted by the air-conditioner in order to keep the inside temperature 10 °C below the outside temperature which is a Mediterranean condition, all expressed in W/h Most of the air-conditioners are given with a Btu/h capacity; the rate between W/h and Btu/h is 3.4, therefore our magic number is now 1,800 x 3.4 which is 6,120 Btu/h.

Contemporary loads
Contemporary means that the cabins of the "night" area and the rooms of the "day" area must be air-conditioned at the same time. This normally is not requested; the heat load calculation considers the maximum load for each room; in the day area it means that it is lunch time and everybody is at table, the cook is cooking and the sun is at its height. For the cabins the peak is reached in the first hours of the night when there is still the heat of the day, and two people are in the cabin. As you consider this situation, then you have to make the choice if you want the 'night' area air-conditioned at the same time as the 'day' area. This would mean that more capacity of air-conditioning has to be installed.

We have choosen a power boat "open" type (no flybridge) 12 M. long. The plan of the boat (see drawing) shows a dinette with a galley, one aft guest cabin connected to the dinette and a forward owner's cabin. The heat load is the following:

Dinette: 6(S) x 30(K) x 10 (Te-Ti) x 3.4 (rate w/h-Btus/h) = 6,120 Btus/h
Owner's cabin: 4.5 (S) x 22 (K) x 10 (Te-Ti) x 3.4 = 3,336 Btus/h
Guest cabin : 4 (S) x 22 (K) x 10 (Te-Ti) x 3.4 = 2,992 Btus/h
Total heat load = 12,478 Btus/h

For the complete air-conditioning of this boat we need 12,478 Btus/h. If the boat is equipped with a small diesel generator of 3.5 KW, we must check that the air-conditioner will work properly with the available power source. We have calculated the total load but it is necessary to consider the "life" onboard. We can split the boat into two areas, as we have already said, "day" area and "night" area. The total load is a straight addition but the air-conditioning will be requested by only one area per time.

From this consideration we can choose a unit capable of air-conditioning the dinette during the day in the hottest hours, reducing or isolating the cabin supply, which will need air-conditioning only in the night, when the heat load of the dinette is much less. This consideration is more valid for small and medium boats, as the air-conditioning of the main area affects all of the cabins. In this case the most practical, economical but not less effective solution is to install an independent air-conditioner in the dinette under the sofa and make three air outlets: one main grill for the dinette and two smaller closable grills for the cabins.

As an alternative: 1 air-conditioner of 9,000 Btus/h for the dinette and the guest cabin, plus another air-conditioner of 5,000 Btus/h for the owner's cabin. This alternative is sometimes the only possibility as it is not always possible to run a duct for the air distribution to the forward cabin from the dinette; the second unit has however the advantage to have an independent temperature regulation and also to have two independent and smaller units which will start in sequence and reduce the start current load on the generator. In fact the start current of two independent air-conditioners is always lower than the start current of one only air-conditioner with the same capacity.

Third alternative: central system with a small chiller unit (12,000 Btu/h) installed in the engine room connected to a 9,000 Btu/h fan coil installed in the dinette and a second fan coil of 4,500 Btu/h installed in the owner's cabin. As to the configuration of the second alternative, the fan coil installed in the dinette is also cooling the guest cabin where the temperature is adjusted by means of a closable grill. This last solution is more expensive but also more complete and flexible as a third fan coil for the guest cabin can be added reaching a complete automatic control on all the cabins. Each cabin can have therefore its independent automatic temperature control not only on the fan speed as in the other solutions.

Installation
For the installation on this power boat of 12 M. we have chosen an air-conditioner manufactured by Veco of Giussano (Italy), a Company well known not only in Europe but almost world wide. Veco has reached the ISO 9002 certification of its quality control in 1996. The drawing 2 of the air distribution schematic shows the position of the Compact air-conditioner, installed under the settee of the dinette; the air intake grill will be positioned on the vertical side of the seat; the air delivery is made connecting a flexible duct between the air outlet of the air-conditioner and a splitter triangular three ways plenum (B); from the splitter plenum there are two more ducts: one forward to the owner's cabin and one aft to reach the guest cabin.

The most important leg is the forward one which will bring air to the dinette and the forward cabin. For the distribution to the cabin and the dinette, a plenum chamber is made on the top of the forward cabin locker, where two outlets are cut, one to the dinette and one to the cabin, where the dinette has priority.(drawing 5). In the drawings 3 and 4 it is shown the sea water circuit schematic with the sea water pump in the engine room and the piping to the unit and out.and also the electrical schematic with the remote control panel. As the flexible insulated ducts must bring different quantities of air, different diameters must be used in order to avoid high pressure drops and also to balance the air distribution.

So the duct from the fan outlet to the splitter plenum is 125mm., from the splitter to the aft cabin is 75mm. and from the splitter to the fwd cabin and dinette is 100 mm. It is important to insist that the efficiency of the unit and a good air-conditioning plant are properly linked to a good air distribution layout. With a well detailed project, we will know what is needed, the length and diameter of the ducts, the position of the grills, and also choose the correct and better design as grills are available in different sizes and materials. When we say "grill" it means a specific type made for air distribution and not other types of grills such as used for air vents. The design and orientation of the grill fins are essential for a good air distribution.

The first step is to determine the location of each component of the system, checking all the possibilities and watching that each component is accessible for maintenance, taking into consideration the manufacturer's specifications on service. The second step is to mark the position of all the holes for the passage of flexible ducts and the grill openings. Once the fan outlet position has been determined, and before installing the air-conditioner, we can drill the holes and install the flexible duct in the compartment next to the unit location; where we also install the 3 way splitter plenum connecting the duct as shown in picture 2. The intake grill (picture 4) is located in the vertical wall in front of the unit. In our case the air-conditioner intake is facing the intake grill, but this is not important once there is enough space around the air-conditioner and the intake air can run around it from the intake grill to the air-conditioner intake.

In the aft cabin, we run a duct of 75 mm inside diameter, after making the hole in the bulkhead between the dinette and the aft cabin. We make two holes for the two round adjustable outlets (picture 5) which we install on the back of the bulkhead which is accessible, the distribution plenum is already connected to the duct by means of a duct adaptor of the correct size. In areas with reduced accessibility this sequence is the rule (connect first the duct to the plenum and then install the plenum) and so we are sure that the duct is well fitted on to the duct adaptor. The duct is fixed on the adaptor by means of screws, glue and/or silicon. It might be difficult to fit the duct to its adaptor as the two measurements are very close in order to ensure a good air seal.

From the first splitter plenum (picture 3) we have the duct to the aft cabin and the other duct (10 cm. dia) which passes through the forward bulkhead between the dinette and the forward cabin and enters the locker. In this locker we have installed a panel in the top so as to make a custom distribution plenum (drawing 5) which feeds the air to the dinette and to the forward cabin. The distribution is made by means of a smaller grill (picture 6) above the locker door for the cabin and a main grill (picture 7) in the forward bulkhead. This solution is very practical and saves a lot of space. The possibility of simultaneously occurring loads is very rare, and we have considered using a manual valve (details in picture 5) which permits to close the grill of the cabin and concentrates the air-conditioning in the dinette during the day. This device must be studied and adapted to the boat configuration but it is practical and inexpensive solution when more cabins are conditioned by the same unit if the shape or size of a closable grill available in the market doesn't fit to our need.

Sea Water Circuit
As the air distribution circuit is finished we have now to install the sea water cooling circuit (drawing 4). We need a scoop type intake port, a manual valve, a strainer, a centrifugal pump, a discharge port and suitable hoses (picture 8).

The centrifugal pump, supplied with the air-conditioner is equipped with a stainless steel base with rubber vibration mounts (picture 9); the pump must be installed at least 50 cm. below the water line. The intake through hull fitting must be positioned possibly in the aft part of the boat. This job needs the boat to be in dry dock. Make sure to check the position both outside and inside the boat. The skin fitting must be accessible from inside, as the manual valve is installed directly on the intake port. The hole is easily drilled by a normal drill equipped by a special tool (centre bit) of the correct diameter. Make sure that the hole corresponds to the through hull fitting as it is quite difficult to increase the diameter of an already drilled hole. The scoop type fitting must be installed with the finned part (intake) towards the front, so that the speed will help the flow and will drain the air out .

There is no risk in having a water circulation when cruising as the water circuit is closed and will discharge outboard, but the positive pressure at the intake will bleed air out of the circuit if the intake takes air in high speed. Air locking in the circuit is the most common cause of pump problems as the centrifugal pump is not self bleeding. A wrong installation (facing astern) will prevent the water circulation even at low speed and worsen the air lock. Install the through hull using the appropriate sealant and screw it tight by means of the washer and nut; from the inside then install the manual valve and its hose fitting. From the valve to the strainer use a flexible hose I.D. 25 mm. as short as possible and the same size from the strainer to the pump intake (in the centre of the pump body). The intake leg from the through hull to the pump must be as short as possible. For the outlet from the pump you can use a hose 16 I.D. straight to the air-conditioner and then from the air-conditioner overboard. It is important that the first 50 cm of the pump outlet is orientated upwards so that any air entering the pump will have room to get out, leaving the pump full of water. The water outlet must be above the water line but not high (5-10 cm. are fine) so that it will be possible to check the water flow and also not so high that will sink your or somebody's else tender. All the hoses must be fastened using stainless steel clamps. The drawing 6 shows the characteristics of the ideal sea water circuit. In order to avoid syphoning and give a good and even flow, try to keep all the hoses as straight as possible and fix all the hoses to the walls and bulkheads.

Electrical circuit
It is mandatory to obey all of the safety rules and follow with extreme care the manufacturer's instructions and specifications (by the way, clear and very easy schematics). The electrical circuit includes the connections of sea water pump control panel mains supply (see drawing 4 and electrical schematic 7) Having cut a hole to the dimensions of the remote control panel on the wall above the seat where the air-conditioner is installed, insert the cable and the thermostat bulb and capillary pipe, and then fasten the panel (picture 13). The cable and thermostat bulb must reach the space where the air-conditioner is installed, where we will run also the pump and mains supply cables. The Veco air-conditioner model Compact 12 RC (picture 14) is supplied on a wooden base for a better protection during transportation, fixed by means of four stainless steel brackets to be used to fasten it at final installation. In order to meet any configuration the fan scroll can rotate from a upper discharge to a low discharge position, by just undoing a few screws (picture 15). Remove the plastic cover from the air filter: Before placing the air-filter in position (picture 16) install the thermostat sensor on its bracket in front of the air intake (picture 17). The air-conditioner is placed in its place under the seat and fastened using the brackets supplied with it and self tapping screws (picture 18). Then the water hoses are connected, taking care of in and out sense; picture 19 shows the fastening of the water hose on the top (out) connection using a stainless steel jubilee clamp; a very useful system is to mark each tail of hose and cable with masking paper tape, making it possible to write indications and marks. Then we connect the panel cable to the electrical box: there is no way to make a mistake as the cable terminal is a polarized plug. The sea water pump and mains wires have their terminals in the electrical box (picture 21).

Condensate drain
Bear in mind that the air-conditioner, in high humidity conditions can produce more than 1 litre of water per hour. For this reason the air-conditioner is equipped with a condensate pan (picture 15) which has two discharge ports for connection to the bilge (picture 3) or, better, to a small tank with an independent drain pump. special pumps for lifting condensate are also available. If the bilge solution is chosen, make sure that the limbers are open and clean to enable the water to reach the bilge pump. If the independent tank solution is chosen, then we suggest a small tank with an automatic drain pump. The installation is now completed: just open the sea cock and check that the sea water circuit is tight. Then power the A.C. circuit and turn the new "Air.conditioning" circuit breaker to "ON "position. The system is ready to run. First push the "Cool" button on the remote control panel, then turn the thermostat knob to the maximum heat (the compressor will not start) so you have the time to check the sea water flow. As you push the button, the pump and the fan must start. As you are happy with the sea water flow and the air flow, you can finally turn the thermostat knob counter-clockwise to adjust to mid range. The compressor will start, the air will become cooler. Enjoy your new air-conditioner. One only recommendation: do not regret too much of not having installed it before.

  


Picture 2: The three way splitter plenum is installed, following the procedure to preconnect insulated flexible ducts. A splitter plenum is a manifold chamber, preferably insulated, with one inlet and several outlets. A distribution plenum is a chamber used to connect a duct to a delivery grill.
 


Picture 3: The space under the seat where the air-conditioner and most of the insulated ducts are to be installed. Ducts cannot be strangled or run in sharp bends as air needs to flow freely.
 


Picture 4: The intake grill must have a sufficient area, enough to feed air to the air-conditioner. The intake of the air- conditioner doesn't need to be oriented toward the intake, as the fan can take the air from the entire space around it, but there must be enough clearance around the air-conditioner to permit air to flow freely.
 


Picture 5: As explained in the text, round closable grills are simply installed by making a hole in the wall. On the opposite side of the wall, a distribution plenum connects to the air duct.
 


Picture 6: The air is ducted, through a connecting plenum to the owner's cabin and to the dinette; the grill for the owner's cabin is just above the locker door. You must remember that cold air falls and must be delivered at a high level.
 


Picture 7: Above figure shows the delivery grill for the dinette, installed in the forward bulkhead; especially for the "day area" zones it is important that air is supplied at deck head level.
 


Picture 8: The picture shows the components of the sea water circuit: A through hull "scoop" type intake, a manual valve, a centrifugal pump, different diameters hoses, and jubilee clips of different sizes.
 

Picture 9: The picture above shows the sea water pump installed on rubber antivibration mounts. The sea water pump must be installed at least 50 cm. under the water line. The skin fitting must be installed well under the water line when the boat is in dry dock.
 

Picture 10: The through hull intake installed in the aft section. The scoop type intake oriented forward helps the flow and will clear the sea water circuit of air if it gets into the circuit. If installed facing aft it will prevent proper functioning of the pump as the circuit will be emptied while cruising.
 

Picture 11: The manual valve is installed directly on the through hull intake; the sea water strainer is installed immediately after.
 

Picture 12: The space under the seat (sofa) is where the unit will be installed. In this space we install the two sea water hoses (in and out) and the electrical connecting cables. The sea water out through hull fitting must be drilled as low as possible just above the water line in order to reduce to a minimum any noise from the falling water. (see drawing 6)
 

Picture 13: The control panel position must be chosen considering ease of use and also the inside decor. The connecting cable is 3m long.
 

Picture 14: The air-conditioner Veco Climma Compact 12 RC comes on a wooden base for transportation and protection. Air-conditioners are not light weight!
 

Picture 15: A moment of the installation, when the fan scroll is oriented downwards to fit into the restricted space. A few screws are enough to make the change.
 

Picture 16: The air filter taken out from its plastic bag and is installed in the front of the air-conditioner after the thermostat bulb has been fixed on its support. The thermostat senses the ambient temperature more effectively if its sensing bulb is installed in the return air path.
 


Picture 17: The bulb is installed on its support in the air intake section of the air-conditioner.
 


Picture 18: The air-conditioner is installed in its space and fastened by means of four practical brackets in stainless steel.
 

Picture 19: The in and out hoses are then connected to the air-conditioner, taking care to respect the indication of the water flow direction. Care must be taken in installing the Jubilee hose clips as a failure may flood the vessel.
 

Picture 20: The connection between control panel and electrical box. The cable ends with a polarized plug: no hassles, but keep it dry!
 

Picture 21: Mains cable and pump cable must be connected to the electrical box. Make sure that each wire goes into its corresponding terminal and that the fixing screw is tightened correctly.

Above article courtesy of Veco Italy.


 

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